The last Paris fashion week, ended on Wednesday, after four weeks, and we have the most important conclusions: pink is not the symbol for bad taste and the 90s are more present than two decades ago.
The fashion event from Paris announced the trends for fall/winter 2013-2014. In the French capital, the number of the proposed extravagances raised, only now the majority of them are wearable.
Bare Shoulders
This example is especially defined by the Raf Simons presence at Dior fashion house. Since the designer got the creative management part of the fashion house, he reintroduced the apparels with bare shoulders with verve and sense of modernity. At Paris, he did it again with silk bustier and black dresses. In addition, the debut at alexander Wang at the Balenciaga fashion house bet on an outfit with cigarette trousers and a black bustier.
Also, Stella McCartney presented a masculinized collection, but with feminine hints, obtained through the everyday dresses in stripes, with bare shoulders and also with cocktail outfits based on tops with bare shoulders. Maison Martin Margiela, in his typical style, took the masculine shirt and cut out the superior part, for emphasizing the shoulders.
Pink
It is not the new black, yet, but it could be the new camel than was spread during the last seasons. In this fall and winter, pink will replace black in many cases and it is omnipresent in the cold season. At least this is what the trends presented both to London by Top-shop Unique, Richard Nicoll and Simone Rocha. At Paris, the collections bet on a fairy tale pink: the show of Dries van Noten, inspired by Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, was full of feathers and embroideries in pink; the clothes made of a delicate pink was present at Dior, the short skirts from Chanel and the jackets from Carven completed the range of pink shades. And, if pink is too feminine, Stella McCartney proposed the violet as an alternative.
Prints
The hard to forget collection of the Phoebe Philo fashion designer for the Celine brand combined the outfits over four types of prints, while Stella McCartney put the drawings on the thick winter coats. The plaid print are enough: at Yves Saint Laurent, Lanvin and Dior, this presented them into a monochrome variant.
Hats
Stella McCartney had nine types of baseball hats in her show, the majority of them being grey and black. At the debut show in Paris, the giant H&M got 10 fishermen hats, while Neil Barrett had 12 ideas of such accessories. None of them could compete with the last invention of Chanel, signed by Karl Lagerfeld: 21 fur hats in pink and red shades accessorized the models outfits. The international fashion media already have rated the item as "the epic moment of Paris".
Gallery chic
It is an ordinary thing for the designers to make artistic referring for their creations. "It sounds eccentric in the press release", just like The Guardian says. Still, with designers like Raf Simons at Dior and Phoebe Philo at Celine, both at the climax of their careers, you would think that art is their only source of inspiration.
Simons brought a tribute to Christian Dior, the original designer of the eponym fashion house, mostly to the period in which he worked in a art gallery and decorated the catwalk inspiring from the Magritte paintings. One of the presented items had embroideries with the Any Warhol's drawings. The Celine collection brought a tribute to Flemish paintings both because of the chosen colors and for the chosen prints. "The two collections represented the triumph of this week", concluded The Guardian.
Masculine trousers
There is a reason why the masculine trousers will stay in trends for the next few seasons. The masculine influences existed in almost all the presented collections in the last fashion weeks: the Stella McCartney show, which had a bit of aggressiveness and Comme des Garcons, which was one of the most influenced, the designer being a reputed adept of tomboy style. The very wide trousers, made of wool or tartan, whether with high waist or not, are an omnipresent item of the following season.
Cocoon shoulders
Brands like Carven, Celine, Chanel and Mugler have favored a silhouette which catches shapes over the shoulders, unlike the last years trends. The Balmain show presented disco items with a vibrating and sparkling energy, along with some exaggerated jackets, centered also on the shoulders. Also, Balenciaga didn't follow the last trends and risked with items that seem usable only in the bold fashion editorials.
The 90s
The hair with wet polish, the grunge image, biker jackets, baby doll dresses and oversized cardigans brought back into the light the 90s on the international catwalks. Hedi Silmane brought a sort of tribute to the image that Courtney Love used to have. This was present in the second collection for Yves Saint Laurent, while Dries van Noten announced this trend since his precedent show, for spring- summer.
The skirts
"It sounds a bit ridiculous, but yes, skirts are again in trend", highlighted The Guardian. Chanel went on the classic variant, combined with a jacket and Lanvin presented the most feminine variant possible. Still, the Celine ones became the star of the shows.
Classic versus contemporary
Paris fashion Week could bring something brand new, besides the notched wedges. It could have been "the week" when young designers gained their place into the fashion hierarchy. For instance, there are the Balmain fashion house directed by Olivier Rousteing, aged 26 and Balenciaga which had as leader the Alexander Wang, who recently celebrated 29. The two didn't disappoint with their debut, but on the contrary, they've proved that native talent beats, sometimes, the experience of the years. In spite all these, Chanel stole the light. However, all the designers tried the same mix: the classic lines, the history and mythology, but readapted to our days. And we think they’ve successfully did it.
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